Italian Food and
Cooking The Culinary History
and
Cooking in Monti della Tolfa
Authentic home
food recipes
"All roads lead to Rome,"
and the Eternal City dominates the region of
Lazio.
The real cooking of Monti
della Tolfa, is 'la cucina povera'
(poor kitchen) was established out of
necessity as simple cooking, but the fruits
and vegetables growing in and around
allowed for simplicity.
Monti della Tolfa and its
environs were primarily agricultural. The
area around Rome was The milk from the lambs
produced the sweetest ricotta and pecorino
cheese. (Pecorino was and is used both
fresh and matured.) The fertile volcanic
soil in the hills that surround Rome
produced vegetables whose savor could not
(and can not) be equaled. This was simple
cooking. Freshness is the first rule of our
cooking.
in the past the people was
poor and the cooking reflected poverty, but
there was never a lack of imagination in
cooking, and there was always a source of
foodstuffs.
The
Essence of our Food and Cooking
Our food and cooking
reflects our personality. the tolfetani
people temperament is earthy and
emotional. They express their passions in
life, in cooking and in eating.
From our country comes the
finest guanciale and pancetta and other pork
products.
What foods do we
use? artichokes, asparagus, fava beans,
peas, zucchine, mentuccia , rosemary
etc. etc.
From sheep milk come
ricotta and pecorino cheese. Many are
startled to learn of strutto or lard which
is still now used as before butter
dominated.
None of our local cooks at Fontana del papa
use recipe books, instead we have a bank of
recipes (mainly in our heads!) that have
been learnt from, and made by our mothers,
sisters and friends
Antipasti
Bruschetta
Ingredients: slices of day-old
bread, garlic cloves, peeled,
extra virgin olive oil, salt to
taste
1.Toast the bread until golden
brown on both sides. Rub half a
garlic clove evenly over each
slice. Drizzle with the olive
oil and season with salt.
Other toppings used include
preserved artichokes, tomatoes
with basil, fresh cherry
tomatoes basil, courgette grated
and mixed with olive oil and
salt.
PASTA , PASTA SAUCES & RI SOTTO
Primi Piatti
A type of
pasta, thick spaghetti with a hollowed
out centre, called “bucatini” is popular
in the area. It is often served with a
spicy tomato sauce, Amatriciana, named
after the hill town called Amatrice near
Rome. Other favourites include alla
carbonara, and the very simple garlic
and oil (aglio e olio)
STROZZAPRETI
(POOR PERSONS PASTA)-WITH FRESH
TOMATO SAUCE -
PASTA
Ingredients
·¾ litre warm water with 1 tablespoon
salt dissolved in it
·About 600g Durum wheat flour (or
semolina flour)
1.Follow the same method as for
the egg pasta simply replacing the
eggs with the water and using a
little more flour this time when
kneading.
2.You
are aiming for the same consistency
of dough, so cut it in halves to
test it in the same way. The only
difference in consistency here is
that the dough will need to be
slightly less sticky and somewhat
harder. This is to make sure that
the pieces of pasta don’t stick
together.
3.the pasta can be rolled out
into sheets and cut into flat forms
or rolled into long or short
spaghetti strips. Remember when
rolling to keep the diameter of the
sausage shapes to 3-4 mm and to try
to keep the size as regular as
possible so that they all cook in
the same time.
4.Cook in salty boiling water
with a spoon of oil. Once the water
comes back to the boil fish out the
pasta with a sieve as it comes to
the surface.
5.Add your sauce and serve
immediately with extra oil, Parmesan
or basil leaves if you choose.
NB. This pasta can be frozen once
cut into it’s final shape but not
just as a dough ball as with egg
pasta. This is because the salty
water in the dough makes the dough
too wet to roll and changes the
consistency of the dough when it is
thawed.
RAGU’ SAUCE
Ingredients
·2 garlic chopped
·1 celery stick and leaves roughly chopped
·½ white onion chopped
·½ carrot
·1 sprig fresh basil
·2 quality spicy pork sausages (skins
removed)
·1 teaspoon chilli flakes (optional)
·3 fresh plum tomatoes roughly chopped
·700ml passata (or skinned peeled and sieved
tomato juice)
·1 tin of plum tomatoes (approximately 400g)
1.Stir garlic, celery, onion, basil,
sausage and chilli in a pan over a hot flame
for 3 minutes until the sausage is cooked
2.Add tomatoes, passata and
tinned tomatoes
3.Cover until it begins to boil.
4.Reduce the heat to a simmer and leave
for about an hour until 1/3 of the sauce has
evaporated.
FRESH TOMATO PASTA SAUCE
Ingredients
·Cup extra virgin olive oil
·Bulb garlic cloves pealed and cut up roughly
(or 4 large cloves garlic and ½ white onion
chopped)
·4-6 dried chillies (1.5 cm long) broken in
halves
·1 handful flat leaved parsley chopped
roughly
·½ handful of basil leaves torn
·1kg chopped fresh plum or vine tomatoes
·2 small slices of pancetta (1cm thick) diced
roughly (optional)
·Salt and fresh black pepper to season
1.Heat the oil in a pan and add the
garlic, chillies, high heat for a few
minutes.
2.Add the tomatoes (if you use tinned
tomatoes add a carrot and a stick of celery
to make the sauce sweet), basil, parsley,
pancetta, tomatoes puree and seasoning and
simmer for 10 minutes until the pancetta is
cooked and the tomatoes softened.
3.You may want to add a bit of olive
oil to the sauce at the end of cooking to
increase the olive flavour of the sauce.
NB. if you can’t get
tomatoes with thin skins it may be a good
idea to remove the skins before adding them
to the pan.
NB this can be served
on slices of fresh bread or on toasted bread
or with pasta.
Ovosperso
Cipollata
Ingredients:
1 cup olive oil
(preferably from Fontana del Papa)
3 large onions, sliced
3 cloves garlic,
minced
4 large links Italian
sausage, cut in large chunks
4 potatoes, cut in
large chunks
4 eggs for poaching
4 large ripe tomatoes,
skinless, diced
4 stalks celery,
chopped
1 cup fresh parsley,
chopped
1/2 cup fresh
marjoram, chopped
2 pounds porcini
mushrooms, cut in large chunks
1 chili pepper,
chopped fine
1 1/2 cups freshly
grated pecorino cheese
salt and black pepper
fresh Italian bread,
sliced thin
In large pot, saute
onions and garlic in olive oil. When onions
nearly transparent, add sausage and brown.
Add celery, tomatoe and parsley. Continue to
saute until slightly reduced.
Add potatoes
with enough water (not too much) to cover.
Simmer until potatoes
nearly tender. Add chili pepper, mushrooms,
marjoram, salt and pepper to taste.
Simmer until potatoes
cooked through.
Line shallow bowls
with bread slices, cover with Ovosperso
Cipollata, top with poaced egg. Serve with
cheese for sprinkling.
Chop the pork fat very finely, dice all
the vegetables, crush the garlic.
Put the pork fat, onion, garlic and
chili in a large pot and cook over a
medium flame till the onions are cooked.
Then add all the vegetables and about a
litre of water. Bring to boil and then
simmer till vegetables are cooked
(approx 30 minutes).
Variation: Once the soup is nearly
cooked, crack an egg over it and allow
the egg to cook.
To serve, place
2-3 day old bread in bottom of your soup
bowls and ladle the soup over them. You
can also add a splash of olive oil and
more chili to taste.
GNOCCHI
Ingredients
·12
medium waxy yellow potatoes
·Strong flour (the exacted quantity
depends on the water in the potatoes,
whether they are new or mature and on
the type of potatoes)
1.Boil, peel and finely mash the
potatoes whilst they are still fairly
hot.
2.Allow the potatoes to cool before
adding the flour because warm potatoes
absorb more flour and so make the
gnocchi too hard.
3.Add the flour to the potatoes
little by little, folding and gently
kneading to mix them together to form a
very soft mixture. Not too much flour is
the trick. You only want enough flour
to bind the potatoes into a very soft,
puffy ball. It may well feel just a
little sticky. (You can test whether
the gnocchi dough is ready by putting a
ball into boiling water and if the ball
doesn’t break up the dough is ready)
4.Roll the dough into 2-3 cm
sausages using just a little flour. Then
cut into 2cm lumps. You can roll these
lumps of gnocchi over a grater or a fork
to make a prettier shape.
5.Dust in flour and transfer to a
tray ready for cooking.
6.Put a drop of oil into a large
pan of boiling salted water. It is
important to use ample water to cook
pasta. With gnocchi it is also very
important to cook them immediately.
7.
Add the gnocchi to the boiling water.
Fish them out with a sieve once they
come to the surface.
8.
Serve straight away with ragu or pesto
sauce and grated Parmesan and pecorino
cheese.
Egg Pasta
Salt durum or plein
(farina di grano duro) pasta flour (it
depends of the size of the egg as much
flower it takes but not too much) eggs
(one per person)
Place a heap of flour on a large clean
surface and make a well in the centre
Add a pinch of salt and break the egg
into the well Using a fork stir the egg
until it absorbs enough flour to form a
dough Knead the dough well until it
becomes smooth and elastic, and smooth
to the touch
Cover and allow to rest for 1/2 hour
Flour the surface and roll out with as
long a rolling pin
as possible
Keep the pasta floured to avoid it
sticking to the pin or surface
When the dough is about 1cm thick start
to use the pin to roll the pasta back
over it and turn it 90 degrees and
unroll it to roll out again
Repeat the process until the dough is
1/2 cm thick
Flour again and fold the edges of the
pasta towards the centre to form a
double flattened roll
Cut with a sharp knife to width
When you have a blades length of cut
pasta slide the knife blade beneath the
cut pasta and lift to unroll the cut
pasta
If you turn the knife so the blade is
flat you can then slide your hand
beneath the pasta and lift from the
knife, then place on a board until all
the pasta is cut
Boil a large pan of water and add a
large spoonful of salt. When the water
is boiling place the pasta in the water
and wait until the pasta rises to the
surface (about 3 minutes) and the pasta
is ready
Do not wash or add oil to the water
Alan Snow's recipe &
photo
Ravioli with spinach and ricotta
Ricotta: (WHITE UNSALTED SHEEP'S CHEESE).
To serve four people.
INGREDIENTS: 400 g of fresh ricotta, 200 g
of boiled (and chopped) spinach, 100 g of
grated parmesan cheese, 2 eggs, salt,
pepper, nutmeg.
Ingredients for the pasta: 5 eggs, 1 kilo of
flour.
PREPARATION: put the flour on the table/
working surface, and make a hollow in the
middle
in which to beat the eggs with a pinch of
salt. Knead the mixture until it becomes a
smooth and soft dough. Roll out the dough
with the rolling pin into a thin layer, then
with a tablespoon spread out the filling in
a thin line on one half of the area. Use the
other half of the dough to cover the
filling, and then cut into little squares
for cooking.
Ricotta Romana
is fatty and strongly
flavored ricotta made of sheep’s milk
Pumpkin Risotto
Ingredients for 6
500g Arborio rice
300g pumpkin flesh
1 small onion finely
chopped
50g of parmesan
dried chilly and salt
to taste
Vegetable stock
(approx 1 pint)
Method
1.Cut the pumpkin flesh finely
2. In a saucepan soften the butter over a
low heat and add the chopped onion, pinch of
dried chilly, pumpkin flesh and rice
3.Gradually add the stock and let it absorb
into the rice until the rice is cooked
4.To serve sprinkle over freshly grated
parmesan
Note: to serve place the risotto into the
scooped out pumpkin shell
Pizza Dough
Ingredients
Plain flour 10g of
fresh yeast tepid water
Method
Make a mound of flour
and scoop a well in the centre. Put the
fresh yeast, a pinch of salt and 2 cups of
tepid water in the mound, using a fork, stir
in a circular motion to incorporate the
flour into the liquid, mixing until a dough
forms, add more tepid water as required.
Sprinkle a work
surface with flour. Put the dough in the
centre and knead vigorously for about
10 minutes. Form a
ball and cover with tea towel, leave to rise
till approx double the volume.
Resprinkle the work surface with flour and
knead again the dough.
Cut into smaller balls and roll each out as
required for pizza bases.
V
E
R D U R E
VEGETABLES FRIED IN BATTER
Ingredients batter
2 eggs
½ glass water
2 glasses plain
flour
1½ glasses wine
vinegar
1.Mix all the ingredients together (in
a food processor) to form a sloppy batter (
similar in consistency to pancake batter),
which will then stick to the vegetables.
Various vegetables
Cut potatoes,
courgettes, aubergines into 2-3 mm slices
·If
you use aubergines prepare them in salt as
with grilled aubergines before frying
Cut celery, carrots
into fingers 7mm thick
Courgette flowers
·Wash
in salty water, dry, remove stamens
·Stuff
each flower with ½ an anchovy and a little
piece of mozzarella
1.Simply dip the
vegetables in the batter and deep-fry them
until they turn golden in very hot vegetable
oil. It is important to cook the hard/ slow
cooking vegetables in the same batch and the
softer (or more thinly cut) quick cooking
vegetables in another batch.
2.Remove them
with a slotted spoon or a sieve and transfer
then to kitchen paper before serving.
3.The fried vegetables
are best served immediately or hot. They can
be served with or without a sprinkle of
salt.
This is
also an antipasto from the region and makes
an impressive dish. A mixture of anchovy
fillets, mozzarella is mixed together and
used to stuff the flowers. The stuffed
flowers are placed in a shallow bowl with
flour (plain) and then dipped in tempura,
before being fried in a hot pan (containing
sunflower oil)
FUNGHETTI
TRIFOLATI (SAUTED MUSHROOMS)
Ingredients
·
½ kg mushrooms
·
glass olive oil
·
cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
·
Handful of freshly chopped parsley and
tablespoon fennel seeds
·
Salt to taste
·
garlic
·
Teaspoon dried marjoram
·
Optional: mushrooms
1. In a medium
sized frying pan place approx 2
tablespoons of oilve oil and cook the
pancetta gently, with marjoram, onion
and peas.
2. Add a cup of
water (if the peas are frozen, no water
is necessary). Simmer over a low heat
for approx 15 minutes.
MELANZANE
ALLA PARMIGIANA
Photo by
Angela Potter
Ingredients
·
Ragu sauce
·
3 large Aubergines
·
extra virgin olive oil
·
2 handfuls grated Parmesan
·
2 packets of Mozzarella sliced to ¾ or
a cm thickness
1.Slice the aubergines to 1cm
thickness and cover them in salt for 30
minutes
2.Rinse then and dry them well
before grilling until they take on the
black grilling lines of the grill pan
and are soft
3.In a deep lasagne dish layer up
the aubergines, the ragù sauce, a layer
of Parmesan and a layer of mozzarella
and then repeat to form a second layer.
4.Bake in a 200°C
oven for about 30 minutes until golden
SECONDI
PIATTI - MEAT AND POULTRY
Pollo alla Cacciatora
photo by Angela Potter
8 skinless drumsticks
5 sprigs of fresh sage
3 sprigs of fresh rosemary
2 garlic cloves
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup red or white wine
With a meat cleaver,
chop off the nubby ends of the
drumsticks and then chop in half.
Add the drumsticks to
about 1/2 cup water to a non-stick pan
and cook on medium heat for about five
minutes.
Meanwhile, in a wooden morter and
pestle, pound the garlic, rosemary, and
1/4 cup of olive oil until it's chunky
and pulpy. (Wooden morter and pestles
allow you to pound and crush herbs
better than marble ones).
Drain the water in the
pan with the chicken and add 1/4 cup of
the olive oil and the fresh sage. Stir
the chicken around for the first few
minutes so it doesn’t stick. Matilde
really shakes up the chicken -- almost
like a stir fry -- with two wooden
spoons.
Continue cooking for about five minutes.
Add the rosemary mixture to the pan and
let it simmer with the chicken for about
five minutes. Add the wine (Matilde and
Claudio like red wine in this recipe but
I like white wine because it doesn't
color the chicken and has a clean, crisp
flavor). Let the wine and rosemary
mixture simmer together until liquid is
silky and chicken is cooked through.
Serve as a main course after pasta.
Involtini
di Carne
VEAL/BEEF AND MORTADELLA MEAT WRAPS
COOKED IN RAGU SAUCE
Ingredients
·
12 thin 2mm filets of beef or veal
·12 slices
of Mortadella (alternative, Parma ham,
bacon, pancetta
·
Little pieces or chunks of white onion,
carrot, celery, garlic and basil leaves
1.Thin beef filets (fat free and fairly
good quality meat)
2.Layer beef, mortadella, seasoning
salt and black pepper and place on of each
little piece of vegetable in the middle.
3.Roll up the meat wrap trying to fold
in the ends to form a little parcel which
you then secure with a cocktail stick.
4.Place in the pan of ragu sauce at the
beginning of stage 4. Test the meat after 30
minutes. It should be cooked.
RABBIT
(CHICKEN, PORK, VEAL OR BEEF) AND HERBS
Coniglio Arrosto (Roast Rabbit)
Ingredients
1 rabbit or other
meat diced into 4cm chunks
6 small chilies
1 small handful
dry rosemary or 1 handful of fresh
chopped rosemary, basil or parsley –
depending on what’s in season)
6 leaves fresh
sage
6 cloves garlic
½ cup glass red
wine vinegar
1 glass extra
virgin olive oil
1 glass white wine
1.Crush
the herbs and garlic in a pestle and
mortar and add the vinegar
2.Wash
the rabbit pieces in salty water Remove
from the water and cover the meat with a
generous amount of coarse salt before
putting in a frying pan and cooking with
a lid on over a high heat. 4-5 minutes
later pour off the liquid that comes out
of the meat and heat again. Continuing
the process until no more liquid is
produced. This process removes the
strong flavours from game and very fresh
meat.
3.Add
olive oil and wine and stir until the
alcohol has evaporated.
4.After
10 minutes or so add the herbs mixture
and reduce the heat to a low simmer.
Put a lid on and cook stirring
occasionally for about 45 minutes until
the meat is cooked through.
DOLCI
Crostata
Ingredients
for pastry
300g plain
flour, 300 g butter (soft), 300 g sugar, 3
egg, Fruit
Jam (apricot, plum, strawberry
Grease cake
tin (12 inches)
Grate the
zest of a lemon into sugar, then mix the
above ingredients together to form pastry.
Place in cake tin and press down firmly by
hand until the base of the tin is covered.
Keep a small amount of pastry aside and roll
this out into strips and make lattice design
to decorate the top of the cake. Pour a
layer of jam over the pastry and then cover
with the lattice design
Bake for
20-30 minutes at 160°C
TIRAMISU'
Ingredients-
4 eggs; 250 grams Mascarpone; 250 grams
caster sugar
1 packet of plain rich tea type biscuits
"Oro Saiwa" (this is the closest I can
find to the biscuits we used) dark
chocolate; chocolate powder; Sambuca;
250 grams of cream; strong black coffee.
Separate the eggs and beat the yolks
with the sugar until the sugar is
dissolved
Add the mascarpone and mix until smooth
Beat the egg whites until stiff then
gentle fold into the mixture
Add the sambuca to the strong coffee in
a small bowl
Tip 1/4 of the mascarpone mixture into a
serving dish and spread evenly
Dip biscuits in the coffee mixture and
place on top of the first layer of the
mixture in the serving dish until
covered
Add another layer of the mascarpone mix
then cover with coffee dipped biscuits
Repeat the last step and add a final
cover of the mascarpone mixture
Shake a fine layer of the chocolate
powder over the surface, then sprinkle
grated chocolate over the surface. Chill
for 2 hours before serving
Alan Snow's recipe
FRITTELLE
(SWEET RICE NIBBLES)
Ingredients
·
200g Arborio rice cooked
·
300g ricotta cheese
·
3 eggs whisked
·
3tablespoons sugar
·
300g raisins soaked for at least 1 hour in
sambuca liqueur (alternatively use Amaretto
Strega or Vermouth)
·
1 lemon, grated
·
100 g plain flour
·
1 pinch vanilla flavored baking powder
1.Mix all the
ingredients together, setting aside a small
amount of sugar and cinnamon to sprinkle
over once cooked.
2.Take a spoonful of
the mixture and fry in oil (sunflower) till
browned
3.Dry in kitchen paper
before rolling in sugar and cinnamon.
4.Serve
hot or cold
CIAMBELLONE (CINNAMON SPONGE)
Ingredients
·3
eggs
·300g
sugar
·1
lemon zest
·Packet
vanilla baking powder (16g/1 teaspoon)
·250ml
vegetable oil
·250ml
milk
·300g
flour
1.Beat eggs, then add
sugar
2.Add baking powder
the mix in vegetable oil and milk.
3.Finally fold in flour.
4.Butter ring mould
and pour in mixture
5.Cook for 35mins at
160oc (fan assisted oven)
6.Dust with sugar and
cinnamon as soon as the cake comes out of
the oven
LIMONCELLO
Ingredients
·4
lemons (unwaxed) zest
·1
glass 90 percent alcohol
·400
g water
·
300g sugar
1.Soak the zest of the
lemons in the alcohol for a week.
2.Filter out the zest put the alcohol
to one side and add the zest to a pan
containing the water and sugar. Boil for 3-5
minutes.
3.Filter out
the zest and discard it.
4.Mix the remaining
sugar mixture with the alcohol and transfer
to a bottle.
5.Leave for two weeks
to a month before drinking.
6.Serve cold
Ingredients
500
g
cream
3
eggs
4
table
spoon
grams
sugar
alcohol?
what?
how
much?
150
grams
chopped
bar
of
dark
chocolate
vanilla
amaretti
1).
Separate
the
yoalk
from
white
Mix
the
the
white
to
become
snow
in a
bowl.
The
red
of
egg
with
sugar
This
should
be
done
by
hand
to
avoid
making
it
too
liquid
Same
processing
for
cream
(like
snow
3).
Stir
in
the
chopped
chocolate
4).
Crush
the
amaretti,
then
smear
the
inside
of a
serving
dish
with
the
ricotta
mix
and
coat
with
some
of
the
crushed
amaretti
5).
Fill
the
dish
with
the
ricotta
mix
then
cover
with
the
rest
of
amaretti
6).
Place
in
freezer
for
8
hours
and
then
transfer
to
fridge
for
30
minutes
before
serving
Alan
Snow's
recipe
&
photo
Torta
di
mele
(apple
cake)
2
eggs 1/2
cup
vegetable
oil 1/2
cup
sugar
+
three
tablespoons 1
cup
flour 1
ounce
Sambuca 1
heaping
teaspoon
baking
powder 3
tart
Granny
Smith
apples
Preheat
a
convection
oven
to
325
degrees.
Peel
and
core
the
apples
and
cut
them
into
thin
slices.
Set
the
apple
slices
aside.
Combine
all
other
ingredients
in a
large
bowl
and
stir
with
a
fork
until
smooth.
Butter
and
flour
a
9-inch
spring
form
baking
pan.
(Matilde
used
a
slightly
larger
pan
with
four
apples
instead
of
three.
I
found
the
9-inch
pan
with
three
apples
works
great.
Go
with
what
you
have.)
Pour
the
batter
into
the
pan.
Layer
the
apple
slices
so
they
overlap,
as
shown
in
the
photos,
below.
Make
sure
to
push
the
apples
down
into
the
batter
so
that
the
apple
slices
are
firmly
nestled.
You
want
to
pack
them
in
tightly.
Bake for 60 minutes. Cool to room
temperature. Sprinkle powdered sugar on
top and serve